DermaCare Blog

DermaCare Blog by Kay Stoll
May 27

The Keratin Layer or Why Peels?

Posted by kaystoll in Untagged 

Topic of Discussion:  The Keratin layer
When we are children and our skin is naturally beautiful, we do not realize what is happening to make it that way. It is the turn over of skin cells. When we are children the turn over of cells occurs about every 28 days. The top layer dies and is sloughed off which stimulates the body to make a new layer in the subcutaneous tissue. That layer is full of plump keratinocytes, new cells that will migrate up to the surface quickly enough to still be living and beautiful. As we age, our skin no longer has the benefits of childhood. As adults when the top layer dies it does not automatically slough off. We begin to secrete a cellular glue that matts down the top layers as they die and prevents them from leaving. Our turn over of new cells slows way down.  This then becomes the Keratin layer. The Keratin layer creates a two fold problem. (1) We no longer get to see the fresh living cells on the surface and (2) Because the dead cells are not sloughing off there is little to stimulate the production of new cells. The body says, oh, I am not down any layers I don't need to make a new layer. So now we have the same skin on the surface, thickening up, dead layer after dead layer, no longer being sloughed off. Instead of sloughing off every 28 days it becomes every 85 and more. Common sense says, why not just use a good scrub and get rid of all that dead skin. Unfortunately scrubs, exfoliants and facial brushes only remove very little. The Keratin layer is too thick. Even micro-dermabrasion is not the best answer. We need something that will turn back the clock and make our skin behave as it once did when we were children. The best tool we have right now are glycolic peels. The only draw back is glycolics work the best on fresh cells. If the keratin layer is too thick we need to remove it first then proceed to glycolic peels. Glycolic peels make our skin behave like a young skin. Glycolic is not a self timed acid. It will descend into the skin as deeply as we allow. This becomes a very useful tool. We begin by allowing the glycolic to descend for 2 minutes only. This means that 2 minutes worth of skin has been dissolved on the surface. This then stimulates the body to replace it. After which it is very important to leave the skin alone, allow it to rebuild its lost tissue. This is the problem with daily use of stronger skin replacements like retinols. Retinols eventually do cause a thinning of the skin because they never allow the body to replace the skin cells. The natural turnover for the cells is 28 days. After 28 days we come back with another glycolic peel. This time we leave it on for 3 minutes and that stimulates the body to make a little more keratinocytes. This is the same concept as working out with weights at the gym. If your goal is to lift 50 pounds you cannot do that in the beginning. You must first start out lifting 5 pounds and then 10 and so forth. The same with glycolics used properly. After a while you will have a very strong deep peel every 28 days, but there will be no fall out; no thinning of the skin because we have taught the body to keep up by slowly building the cell renewal process. There you have it, all you ever needed to know about the keratin layer and how to take it away and keep it away forever.
Feb 13

Liquid IPL

Posted by kaystoll in Untagged 

Liquid IPL

I am pleased to announce a new treatment we are adding to our DermaCare repertoire. It is called the Liquid IPL treatment.  It is a series of 4 treatments scheduled every other week. Approximately 3 to 4 days after the first treatment you will see a tightening, a lifting and a plumping of your face and neck.  All of our clients who have had the treatment say they looked 10 years younger.  Toward the end of the first week this younger look will fade. After the second treatment your youthful appearance will last the full 2 weeks. After the third treatment you will see an even younger effect. By the fourth treatment most of our clients have said they look 15 to 20 years younger.  After the 4 treatments your new more youthful appearance should last 6 months to a year depending on your age and lifestyle.

In Beverly Hills they are charging between $500 and $600 per each treatment. Here at DermaCare we are offering our Liquid IPL Treatment for $160 apiece. This is a phenomenal introductory price. We are doing this because I want all our clients to be able to take advantage of this great treatment.

The liquid IPL activates the body’s repair systems. Even with aged skin these repair systems are fully operable.  Any repair system requires a large input of energy. Biologically this is in the form of adenosine triphosphate (ATP). This energy source is generated by a natural cycle called the Citric Acid Cycle or Krebs Cycle. Once we cause the Krebs Cycle to spin we can generate higher quantities of ATP, the energy molecule; which in turn generates pyruvate and citric acid which produces large quantities of collagen and elastin. Collagen and elastin is the infrastructure of our skin. It is what creates the firmness and tone. Or in other words, the more collagen and elastin in the underlying tissues, the younger we look.

Whenever I add any treatment to our menu, it has to meet certain requirements. It has to do what it says it will do and it has to do it naturally.  I don’t believe in invasive procedures and toxic drugs. Everything that we do at DermaCare meets these standards, otherwise we wouldn’t do it.




Dec 27


Posted by kaystoll in Untagged 

kay blog

Today's skin topic is  Dermatillomania or compulsive skin picking (CSP). Over the years I have run into this problem often. People affected with this condition cannot stop picking their face. Any pimple, or blackhead is fair game and once they start they cannot stop. There are three main reasons that propel people to indulge in this compulsive behavior. They are: 


1.  Self Soothing


2. Stimulation


                                                3. Perfectionism


Self Soothing:  A connection gets established between stress and picking a pimple. A person finds a soothing effect come over them when they stand in front of the bathroom mirror and watch the "stuff" come out of their pores. Once that connection is established then every time a stressful situation occurs, they automatically turn to  picking pimples because it takes away the anxiety of facing anything undesirable. This pattern can become so ingrained that a person will not even realize they are stressed, only that they are in front of the mirror and picking pimples again. After which they are upset and angry with themselves because they have created a disaster on their face.


Stimulation:  Boredom is another reason some people turn to picking. For some people the act of picking their face causes a needed level of stimulation for the nervous system.  It isn’t anxiety that drives them to the mirror, but sheer boredom. None the less the results are the same. The skin is still left wounded with open sores and then large scabs that take days, sometime weeks to heal. Even when they do heal there is a red mark that stays.


Perfectionism:  The need and desire for perfect skin is another reason for picking. It seems contrary for a person who wants perfect skin to mark it up on purpose, but that is what happens. Some people will feel their face. If they run into any bump they will dig at it with their fingernails.  They feel that any irregularity they can feel on their face will be helped if they just scrape it off. Others will look in a mirror to find cialis any bump. If they see anything they will try to squeeze it out. This compulsion actually can create an acne condition that did not initially exist.


Affecting a change in the thought process that drives Dermatillomania is something that I have perfected over the years. I have trained all my estheticians to understand the condition and put into effect our methods of retraining the brain. Whenever you do something over and over again you make a pathway in your brain that makes the task easier and easier. These pathways become deep grooves that create automatic behavior. Unfortunately bad habits are created in the same way. However these grooves do not have to be permanent. I have figured out though experience what works and how to build on each successful result. Now after over 25 years and thousands of Dermatillomania suffers I have a system that achieves results. I cannot tell you how satisfying it is every time I guide a client through this process and the joy they have with the end result of beautiful skin and no desire to harm it.




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